When planning for a climb, one of your first consideration is likely to be the difficulty of the climb.
It is a tough thing to measure. But that did not stop climbers around the world from trying.
Unfortunately, these rating systems can cause a lot of confusion as well.
Many regions and countries use their own difficulty rating and grading systems. There are also different rating systems for different forms of climbing.
It can get pretty overwhelming very quickly.
I have been learning about these different systems for a few weeks now. These are the notes I have made which I hope will be useful for you as well.
In this guide, I will cover:
- 15 common types of climbing grades and rating systems
- The region or country are they used in
- The types of climbing are they used for
- The suitable climbing grades for a beginner
Before we start…
Types of Climbing
Climbing is a very broad term that includes many types of activities.
Read: What Is Non Technical Climbing?
Some of the rating systems in this article are used for a specific form of climbing.
- Rock climbing: this means using your hands and feet to climb up a vertical rock surface. May not include an ascent to the summit of a mountain.
- Ice climbing: this means using your hands and feet to climb up a vertical rock surface. May not include an ascent to the summit of a mountain.
- Mountaineering/ mountain climbing: climbing with the objective of reaching the summit of a mountain. May includes rock climbing, ice climbing, both or none (i.e. hiking or trekking).
- Alpine climbing: seen as the “tougher” form of mountaineering. Involves climbing to summits of high altitudes. Climbs are often in icy or snowy terrains and with a technical component.
Ratings are typically assigned to a specific trail or route and not for the entire mountain. One mountain can have multiple routes and trails with different ratings.
Beginner’s Guide
Climbing ratings are confusing even for experienced climbers. And it can sure be overwhelming for someone who is just starting out.
For each of the rating system, I have listed which grades or ratings that are suitable for beginners. Beginners should start off with non-technical climbing. This means ascending a mountain without the use of any specialized climbing equipment.
Consistency And Accuracy Of Rating Systems
A lot of effort has gone into creating and improving the various rating and classification systems. And yet, it remains more of an art than a science.
Even within a single rating system, climbs can be rated very differently.
After all, the difficulty of a climb will be very different between one individual and the next. Comparing a climb in different areas and between different mountains is also an uphill task (pun!).
There are many ways in which climbing rating and grades are typically assigned:
- Assigned by the first person or group to climb that mountain
- Assigned by the author of a guidebook or article
- Assigned by consensus among a group of climbers
15 Climbing Grades And Rating Systems
- Yosemite Decimal System (YDS)
- Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme (UIAA)
- International French Adjectival System (IFAS)
- National Climbing Classification System (NCCS)
- Alaskan Grading System
- New Zealand Grading System
- Russian Grading System
- Water Ice Grading System
- Mixed Ice Grading System
- Canadian Winter Commitment Grade System
- Scottish Winter Grade System
- Ewbank Grading System
- French Numerical System
- British Grading System
- Aid Rating System
1. Yosemite Decimal System (YDS)
| Usage | Used mainly in the United States and Canada. |
| Types of climbing | Used to rate: – Mountaineering/ mountain climbs – Rock climbs |
| Measures | – The difficulty of a climb (i.e. how difficult to ascend, descend or retreat). – The duration of a climb. – The exposure of a climb (i.e. how much protection there is). |
| Rating System | – Class Rating: Class 1 to 5 – Grade Rating: Grade I to VII – Protection Rating: G to X |
| Beginner’s guide | – Class 1 and 2 climbs are suitable for beginners. – Beginners can attempt Class 3 climbs with a guide. |
Read: 56 Highest Mountains To Climb in the US for Beginners and 27 Highest Mountains To Climb in North America for Beginners
The YDS has a class rating and an optional grade and protection ratings.
The YDS originally consisted only of the class rating and this is the most widely used rating.
The grade and protection ratings were added on later to improve the rating system. But their usage remain low.
Here is an overview of the 2 rating categories:
- Class rating: To classify climbs into hikes, scrambles and rock climbs.
- Grade rating: To indicate the duration of a climb.
- Protection rating. To indicate the danger of a climb and the level of protection available for the leader of a climb. Poor protection is when the anchor points are very far apart from each other. Or when an anchor point is insufficient to prevent a climber from serious injuries during a fall.
Class Rating System
A class is assigned based on the most difficult part of the climb.
For instance, if a route is mostly a Class 1 walking trail with a short section of a Class 4 climb, it will still be rated as Class 4.
In some instances, a separate rating is assigned to the summit block of the climb. For example, a Class 3s5 means that the climb is mainly a Class 3 climb with a Class 5 summit block.
| Class 1 | – A walk or hike. A non-technical climb. – You don’t need to use your hands for climbing. – There are well-defined trails with no need for route finding. – Low chance of injury. – You don’t need to wear hiking shoes or boots. |
| Class 2 | – An easy scramble. A non-technical climb. – You need to use your hands occasionally for climbing. – The trail is intermittent or does not exist. – Slightly higher chance of injury. – You should wear hiking shoes or boots. |
| Class 3 | – A tough scramble. A non-technical climb. – You need to use your hands for climbing. – There are risks of falling and a high chance of injury. Falls can be fatal. – Beginners or unconfident climbers should use a rope for safety. |
| Class 4 | – An easy climb. A technical climb. – You need to use your hands for climbing on a vertical surface. – There are risks of falling and a high chance of injury. Falls can be fatal. – All climbers should use a rope for safety. |
| Class 5 | – A technical climb. – You need to use your hands for climbing on a vertical surface. – There are high risks of falling and a high chance of injury. Falls can be fatal. – All climbers should use a rope for safety. – Class 5 is further divided into sub-classes. – This is to define the increasing difficulty of rock climbs. They range from 5.0 to 5.14. – Letters suffixes were later added on for even further subdivision. The most difficult climb is currently rated 5.14d. |
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Grade Rating System
| I | 1 to 2 hours of climbing |
| II | Less than half a day of climbing |
| III | Half a day of climbing |
| IV | A full day of climbing |
| V | 2 to 3 days of climbing |
| VI | 4 to 6 days of climbing |
| VII | 7 days or more of climbing |
Protection Rating System
| G | Adequate protection. |
| PG | Mostly adequate protection with some areas with poor protection. |
| PG 13 | Fair protection. There are risks of falling but unlikely to cause serious injuries. |
| R | Inadequate protection. There are risks of falling which is likely to lead to serious injuries. |
| X | No protection. There are high risks of falling which is likely to lead to serious injuries and death. |
2. Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme (UIAA)
Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme is also known as the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation.
| Usage | Used mainly in Europe. |
| Types of climbing | Used to rate: – Mountaineering/ mountain climbs – Rock climbs |
| Measures | The difficulty of a climb. |
| Rating System | Grades I to XII |
| Beginner’s guide | – This rating system is used for technical climbs. – Beginners can attempt Grade I climbs with a guide. – Beginners can attempt Grade II climbs after some lessons or training. |
Read: 56 Highest Mountains To Climb in Europe for Beginners
Grading System
| Grade I | – A scramble and the easiest form of rock climbing. – You need to use your hands for support or balance. – Beginners or unconfident climbers should use a rope for safety. – There are risks of falling and a high chance of injury. |
| Grade II | – You need to use your hands for climbing. – You can only move one limb at a time. – You have many holds and supports to choose from. – Beginners or unconfident climbers should use a rope for safety. – There are risks of falling and a high chance of injury. Falls can be fatal. |
| Grade III | – A more challenging climb on a near vertical or vertical surface. – You can get good holds and supports. – You need to start using force to climb. – All climbers should use a rope for safety. – There are high risks of falling and a high chance of injury. Falls can be fatal. |
| Grade IV onwards | – Challenging technical climbs. – There are fewer and smaller holds and supports. – Only for experienced climbers with good climbing techniques. – You can read more about the technical UIAA grades here. |
The grades sometimes have a plus (+) or minus (-) suffix for further subdivision.
3. International French Adjectival System (IFAS)
The IFAS is also referred to as the Alpine Rating System.
This is not to be confused with the French Numerical System (see number 13).
| Usage | Used mainly in Europe. |
| Types of climbing | Used to rate: – Mountaineering/ mountain climbs – Alpine climbs |
| Measures | – The length of a climb. – The difficulty of a climb (i.e. how difficult to ascend, descend or retreat). – The exposure of a climb (i.e. how much protection there is). – The quality of the rock, snow or ice on the routes. |
| Rating System | F, PD, AD, D, TD and ED |
| Beginner’s guide | – F and PD climbs can be suitable for beginners if the routes do not have any snow or ice. – Beginners can attempt F and PD climbs in snowy or icy terrains with a guide. |
Read: 56 Highest Mountains To Climb in Europe for Beginners
Grading System
| F (facile/ easy) | – An easy scramble, walking on snow slopes or glacier travel at a gentle incline. – You seldom use ropes unless you are traveling on glaciers. – Low exposure. – Low chance of injury. |
| PD (peu difficile/ a little difficult) | – Scramble or walking on snow slopes or glacier travel at a steeper incline (up to 45 degrees). – A significant portion of the climb is done at high altitude. – You might need to use ropes for safety or climbing. – Higher level of exposure. – Higher chance of injury. |
| AD (assez difficile/ quite difficult) | – Steep climbing on rock surfaces (up to UIAA Grade III) or snow and ice slopes (about 45 to 65 degrees inclination). – You will need to use ropes for safety or climbing. – High level of exposure. – There are risks of falling and a high chance of injury. – Falls can be fatal. |
| D (difficile/ difficult) | – Long durations of steep climbing on rock surfaces (UIAA Grade IV and V) or snow and ice slopes (about 50 to 70 degrees inclination). – You will need to use ropes for safety or climbing. – High level of exposure. – There are high risks of falling and a high chance of injury. – Falls can be fatal. |
| TD (très difficile/ very difficult) | – Long durations of highly technical climbing on rock surfaces (UIAA Grade V and VI) or snow and ice slopes (about 65 to 80 degrees inclination). – You will need to use ropes for safety or climbing. – High level of exposure. – There are high risks of falling and a high chance of injury. – Falls can be fatal. |
| ED (extrêmement difficile/ extremely difficult) | – Long durations of highly technical climbing on a vertical rock (UIAA Grade VI to VIII) or ice surface. – You will need to use ropes for safety or climbing. – High level of exposure. – There are high risks of falling and a high chance of injury. – Falls can be fatal. – ED is further divided into ED 1 to ED 4 to define increasing difficulty. |
The grades sometimes have a plus (+) or minus (-) suffix for further subdivision.
4. National Climbing Classification System (NCCS)
The NCCS grade is often also referred to the commitment grade.
This is not to be confused with the Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme (UIAA) grade (see number 2).
| Usage | Used mainly in the United States and Canada. |
| Types of climbing | Used to rate: – Mountaineering/ mountain climbs – Alpine climbs |
| Measures | The time required to complete the technical portion of a climb. |
| Rating System | Grade I to VII |
| Beginner’s guide | – This rating system is used for technical climbs. – Beginners will not be able to attempt Grade I climbs without lessons or training. |
Read: 56 Highest Mountains To Climb in the US for Beginners and 27 Highest Mountains To Climb in North America for Beginners
Grading System
| Grade I | 1 to 2 hours to complete the technical portion of a climb. |
| Grade II | 2 to 4 hours to complete the technical portion of a climb. |
| Grade III | 4 to 6 hours to complete the technical portion of a climb. |
| Grade IV | A full day to complete the technical portion of a climb. |
| Grade V | 2 days (with an overnight day) to complete the technical portion of a climb. |
| Grade VI | 2 days or more to complete the technical portion of a climb. |
| Grade VII | A major expedition lasting 7 days or more. |
5. Alaskan Grading System
This grading system is specially adapted to the challenges and difficulty of climbing in Alaska.
| Usage | Used mainly in Alaska. |
| Types of climbing | Used to rate: – Mountaineering/ mountain climbs – Alpine climbs |
| Measures | – Technical difficulty – Duration |
| Rating System | Grade 1 to 6 |
| Beginner’s guide | – This rating system is used for technical climbs. – Due to the cold and remote locations, beginners should only attempt Grade 1 climbs with a guide. |
Grading System
| Grade 1 | – Easy – A non-technical climb. – A climb lasting one day. |
| Grade 2 | – Moderate – A non-technical climb lasting a few days. OR – A technical climb lasting one day. |
| Grade 3 | – Moderate to hard – A technical climb lasting a few days. OR – A challenging technical climb lasting one day. |
| Grade 4 | – Hard to difficult – A challenging technical climb lasting a few days. |
| Grade 5 | – Very difficult – A very challenging technical climb lasting a few days. |
| Grade 6 | – Extremely difficult – An extremely challenging technical climb lasting a few days. |
The grades sometimes have a plus (+) suffix for further subdivision.
6.New Zealand Grading System
| Usage | Used mainly in New Zealand. |
| Types of climbing | Used to rate: – Mountaineering/ mountain climbs – Alpine climbs |
| Measures | – Technical difficulty – Exposure to danger – Duration – Accessibility |
| Rating System | – Grade 1 to 7. – Current grades go to 7 but the grading is open-ended. |
| Beginner’s guide | – Grade 1 climbs are suitable for beginners. – Beginners can attempt Grades 2 and 3 climbs with a guide or after some lessons or training. |
Grading System
| Grade 1 | – An easy scramble. – You seldom use ropes unless traveling on glaciers. |
| Grade 2 | – A steeper scramble. – You may need a rope for safety. |
| Grade 3 | – Longer steeper sections. – A technical climb. |
| Grade 4 | – A technical climb. – A full day to complete the climb. |
| Grade 5 | – A technical climb. – You will spend a significant duration on the technical part of the climb. |
| Grade 6 | – A technical climb with multiple crux sections. – High exposure and high chances of injuries. – The climb is in a remote location. |
| Grade 7 | – A challenging technical climb. – High exposure and high chances of injuries. – The climb is in a remote location. |
7. Russian Grading System
| Usage | Used mainly in post-Soviet states. |
| Types of climbing | Used to rate: – Mountaineering/ mountain climbs – Alpine climbs |
| Measures | – Technical difficulty – Frequency of crux sections – Steepness – Exposure – Altitude – Duration |
| Rating System | – Technical grade: Grades I to VI – Overall grade: Grades 1A to 6B |
| Beginner’s guide | – Grade 1A climbs are suitable for beginners. – Beginners can attempt Grades 1B and 2A climbs with a guide or after some lessons or training. |
Read: Highest Mountains To Climb In Russia for Beginners
The Russian grading system has a technical grade and an overall grade.
- Technical grade: To indicate the technical difficulty and steepness of the climb.
- Overall grade: To indicate the overall difficulty of the climb.
Technical Grading System
| I (easy) | -Gentle snow or ice slopes up to 30 degrees – Require basic alpine equipment |
| II (simple) | – Gentle snow or ice slopes up to 30 degrees – Moderate climbing on rocks – Require basic alpine equipment |
| III (moderately difficult) | – Snow or ice slopes from 35 to 45 degrees – Climbing on steep rocks with many good holds – Require basic alpine equipment and rock climbing equipment |
| IV (difficult) | – Snow or ice slopes up to 55 degrees – Climbing on steep rocks – Require full alpine equipment and rock climbing equipment |
| V (very difficult) | – Snow or ice slopes more than 55 degrees – Climbing on steep rocks with a limited number of holds – Require full alpine equipment and rock climbing equipment |
| VI (exceptionally difficult) | – Steep snow or ice slopes – Climbing on vertical and overhanging rocks with a limited number of holds – Require full alpine equipment and aid climbing equipment |
Overall Grading System
| Grade 1A | – A walk or hike. A non-technical climb. – No minimum ascent or elevation. |
| Grade 1B | – A non technical climb. – A climb with an elevation of 2,000 to 5,000 meters (6,500 to 16,500 feet). – Sections of snow and ice or mixed conditions. |
| Grade 2A | – A climb with an elevation of 2,000 to 6,000 meters (6,500 to 20,000 feet). – A climb with an ascent of 500 meters (1,650 feet). – Sections of snow and ice or mixed conditions. – Rock sections up to Grade II and ice sections up to Grade II. |
| Grade 2B | – A climb with an elevation of 2,000 to 6,000 meters (6,500 to 20,000 feet). – Sections of snow and ice or mixed conditions. – Short rock or ice sections up to Grade III. |
| Grade 3A | – A climb with an elevation of 2,500 to 6,500 meters (8,000 to 21,000 feet). – Sections of snow and ice or mixed conditions. – Up to 600 meters (2,000 feet) of rock or ice sections up to Grade II. |
| Grade 3B | – A climb with an elevation of 2,500 to 6,500 meters (8,000 to 21,000 feet). – A climb with an ascent of 600 meters (2,000 feet). – Sections of snow and ice or mixed conditions. – Up to 30 meters (100 feet) of rock sections up to Grade III – Up to 300 meters (1,000 feet) of ice sections up to Grade III or shorter sections of Grade IV. |
| Grade 4A | – A climb with an elevation of 2,500 to 7,000 meters (8,000 to 23,000 feet). – A climb with an ascent of 600 meters (2,000 feet). – Sections of snow and ice or mixed conditions. – Up to 50 meters (160 feet) of rock sections up to Grade IV – Up to 300 meters (1,000 feet) of ice sections up to Grade IV. – 6 to 8 hours of climbing. |
| Grade 4B | – A climb with an elevation of 2,500 to 7,000 meters (8,000 to 23,000 feet). – A climb with an ascent of 600 meters (2,000 feet). – Sections of snow and ice or mixed conditions. – Up to 80 meters (260 feet) of rock sections up to Grade IV or shorter section of Grade V. – Up to 400 meters (1,300 feet) of ice sections up to Grade IV. – 8 to 10 hours of climbing. |
| Grade 5A | – A climb with an elevation of 3,000 to 7,500 meters (10,000 to 23,000 feet). – A climb with an ascent of 600 meters (2,000 feet). – Sections of snow and ice or mixed conditions. – Long rock sections of Grades III and IV with some sections of Grade V. – Up to 400 meters (1,300 feet) of ice sections up to Grade V. – 10 to 15 hours of climbing. |
| Grade 5B | – A climb with an elevation of 3,000 to 7,500 meters (10,000 to 23,000 feet). – A climb with an ascent of 700 meters (2,300 feet). – Sections of snow and ice or mixed conditions. – Long rock sections of Grades III and IV and up to 50 meters (160 feet) of Grade V. – Up to 800 meters (2,600 feet) of ice sections up to Grade V. – 15 to 20 hours of climbing. |
| Grade 6A | – A climb with an elevation above 3,600 meters (12,000 feet). – A climb with an ascent of 800 meters (2,600 feet). – Sections of snow and ice or mixed conditions. – Long rock sections of Grades IV and V and up to 20 meters (65 feet) of Grade VI. – 40 to 50 hours of climbing. |
| Grade 6B | – A climb with an elevation above 4,500 meters (15,000 feet). – A climb with an ascent of 1,000 meters (3,300 feet). – Sections of snow and ice or mixed conditions. – Long rock sections of Grades V. – More than 48 hours of climbing. |
8. Water Ice Grading System
Also known as Water Ice (WI) Numeric Scale. A related but less common scale is the Alpine Ice (AI) Numeric Scale.
Water Ice: ice that is seasonal and melts during the warmer months. Water ice is usually denser than alpine ice.
Alpine Ice: permanent ice that does not melt throughout the year. Usually at high altitude or glaciers.
| Usage | Used mainly in the United States. |
| Types of climbing | Used to rate: – Mountaineering/ mountain climbs with water ice or alpine ice |
| Measures | – Technical difficulty – Steepness – Length |
| Rating System | WI 1 to WI 7ORAI 1 to AI 7 |
| Beginner’s guide | – This rating system is used for technical climbs on icy terrains. – Beginners can attempt WI 1 or AI 1 climb with a guide or after some lessons or training. |
Grading System
| WI 1/ AI 1 | – An easy technical climb. – 50 degrees inclination. – Good protection. |
| WI 2/ AI 2 | – A technical climb. – 60 degrees inclination. – Good protection. |
| WI 3/ AI 3 | – A technical climb. – 70 degrees inclination. – Good quality of ice. – Adequate protection. |
| WI 4/ AI 4 | – Long technical climb. – 80 degrees inclination. – Good quality of ice with some technical features. – Adequate protection. |
| WI 5/ AI 5 | – Long technical climb. – 90 degrees inclination. – Many different ice formations. – Fair protection. |
| WI 6/ AI 6 | – Very long technical climb. – More than 90 degrees inclination. – Thin, long or overhanging ice. – Poor protection. |
| WI 7/ AI 7 | – Extremely technical climb. – More than 90 degrees inclination. – Thin, long or overhanging ice. – Almost no protection. |
9. Mixed Ice Grading System
This is also known as the Mixed Ice (M) Numeric Scale.
| Usage | Used mainly in the United States. |
| Types of climbing | Used to rate: – Mountaineering/ mountain climbs with both rocky and icy terrains |
| Measures | – Technical difficulty – Steepness – Length |
| Rating System | M1 to M14 |
| Beginner’s guide | – This rating system is used for technical climbs. – Beginners will not be able to attempt M1 climbs without lessons or training. |
Grading System
| M1 | The equivalent of YDS Class 5.5 |
| M2 | The equivalent of YDS Class 5.6 |
| M3 | The equivalent of YDS Class 5.7 |
| M4 | The equivalent of YDS Class 5.8 |
| M5 | The equivalent of YDS Class 5.9 |
| M6 | The equivalent of YDS Class 5.9+ |
| M7 | The equivalent of YDS Class 5.10 |
| M8 | The equivalent of YDS Class 5.11 |
| M9 | The equivalent of YDS Class 5.11+ |
| M10 | The equivalent of YDS Class 5.12 |
| M11 | The equivalent of YDS Class 5.12+ |
| M12 | The equivalent of YDS Class 5.13 |
| M13 | The equivalent of YDS Class 5.13+ |
| M14 | The equivalent of YDS Class 5.14 |
10. Canadian Winter Commitment Grade System
| Usage | Used mainly in Canada. |
| Types of climbing | Used to rate: – Mountaineering/ mountain climbs with ice or mixed conditions – Alpine climbs |
| Measures | – Technical difficulty – Hazards – Length |
| Rating System | Grade I to VII |
| Beginner’s guide | – This rating system is used for technical climbs on icy terrains. – Beginners can attempt Grade I climbs with a guide or after some lessons or training. |
Read: Highest Mountains to Climb in Canada for Beginners
Grading System
| Grade I | – A short easy climb. – No alpine hazards. |
| Grade II | – A short section of technical climb. – A few alpine hazards. |
| Grade III | – A full day climb. – Some alpine hazards. |
| Grade IV | – Longer sections of technical climbs in alpine terrain. – Hazards include high altitude and remote location |
| Grade V | – A full day climb of technical climbs in alpine terrain. – Alpine hazards. |
| Grade VI | – A full day climb of vertical climbs in alpine terrain. – Significant alpine hazards. |
| Grade VII | – Extremely challenging vertical climbs in alpine terrain. – Very significant alpine hazards. |
11. Scottish Winter Grade System
| Usage | Used mainly in Scotland. |
| Types of climbing | Used to rate: – Mountaineering/ mountain climbs with ice or mixed conditions. – Alpine climbs |
| Measures | – Technical difficulty – Steepness – Length |
| Rating System | Grade I to VIII |
| Beginner’s guide | – This rating system is used for technical climbs on icy terrains. – Beginners can attempt Grade I climbs with a guide or after some lessons or training. |
Grading System
| Grade I | – An easy technical climb. – 50 degrees inclination. – Good protection. |
| Grade II | – Steep snow or ice. – Short sections of technical climbs on icy conditions. |
| Grade III | Longer sections of technical climbs on icy conditions. Moderate rock climbs. |
| Grade IV | – Short sections of vertical ice climb or longer sections of steep snow or ice up to 70 degrees. – Difficult rock climbs. |
| Grade V | – Longer sections of steep snow or ice up to 80 degrees. – Difficult mixed climbs. |
| Grade VI | – Vertical ice climbs. – Very difficult mixed climbs. |
| Grade VII | – Long sections of vertical ice climb. – Long sections of very difficult mixed climbs. |
| Grade VIII | – Extremely difficult ice or mixed climbs. |
12. Ewbank Grading System
| Usage | Used mainly in Australia, New Zealand and South Africa. |
| Types of climbing | Used to rate: – Rock climbs |
| Measures | – Technical difficulty – Exposure – Length – Rock quality – Protection |
| Rating System | – Starts from Grade 1It is an open-ended grading system. – The most difficult climb is currently rated at Grade 35. |
| Beginner’s guide | – This rating system is used for technical climbs. – Beginners can attempt Grade 1 climbs after some lessons or training. |
13. French Numerical System
This is not to be confused with the International French Adjectival System (IFAS) (see number 3).
| Usage | Used mainly in Europe and many international events outside of the United States. |
| Types of climbing | Used to rate: – Rock climbs |
| Measures | – Technical difficulty. – Strenuousness. |
| Rating System | – Starts from Grade 1. – It is an open-ended grading system. – The most difficult climb is currently rated at Grade 9c. |
| Beginner’s guide | – This rating system is used for technical climbs. – Beginners will not be able to attempt Grade 1 climbs without lessons or training. |
14. British Grading System
This is also known as the United Kingdom (UK) Grading System.
| Usage | Used mainly in the UK. |
| Types of climbing | Used to rate: – Rock climbs |
| Measures | – The length of a climb. – The difficulty of a climb. – The exposure of a climb (i.e. how protected you are). – The quality of the rock, snow or ice on the routes. |
| Rating System | – Adjectival Grade: E to ES. – Technical Grade: starts from 1. It is open-ended. The most difficult climb is currently rated at Grade 7b. |
| Beginner’s guide | – This rating system is used for technical climbs. – Beginners can attempt Grade E or M climbs after some lessons or training. |
The UK grading system has an adjectival and technical grade.
- Adjectival grade:
- To indicate the overall difficulty of the climb.
- A short and difficult climb can have the same grade as a longer and easier climb.
- The length of a climb.
- The difficulty of a climb.
- The exposure of a climb (i.e. how protected you are).
- The quality of the rock, snow or ice on the routes.
- To indicate the overall difficulty of the climb.
- Technical grade:
- To indicate the technical difficulty of the hardest move in the climb.
- This does not take into account the number of such moves, the danger or duration of the climb.
Adjectival Grading System
- E (Easy)
- M (Moderate)
- D (Difficult)
- HD (Hard Difficult)
- VD (Very Difficult)
- HDV (Hard Very Difficult)
- MS (Mild Severe)
- S (Severe )
- HS (Hard Severe)
- MVS (Mild Very Severe)
- VS (Very Severe)
- HVS (Hard Very Severe)
- ES (Extremely Severe)
15. Aid Rating System
Aid climbing is a form of rock climbs where climbing equipment is used in the ascent of the climb. This is different from using climbing equipment for safety protection.
There are 2 aid rating systems — traditional and clean (or New Wave).
The Clean (or New Wave) rating system is for routes that can be climbed without bolting in any anchors or gears.
| Usage | Used mainly in the United States. |
| Types of climbing | Used to rate: – Rock climbs |
| Measures | – Risks in using the climbing equipment – Risk of a fall |
| Rating System | – Traditional aid climbing: A0 to A5 – Clean aid climbing: C0 to C5 |
| Beginner’s guide | – This rating system is used for technical climbs. – Beginners will not be able to attempt A0 climbs without lessons or training. |
Grading System
| A0/ C0 | – You do not need specialized climbing equipment. |
| A1/ C1 | – You need specialized climbing equipment. – All placement of equipment is easy. |
| A2/ C2 | – You need specialized climbing equipment. – Some placement of equipment is easy. |
| A3/ C3 | – You need specialized climbing equipment. – Some placement of equipment only holds body weight and does not support falls. – The risk of injuries is low. |
| A4/ C4 | – You need specialized climbing equipment. – Many placements of equipment only hold body weight and do not support falls. – The risk of injuries is high. |
| A5/ C5 | – You need specialized climbing equipment. – Many placements of equipment only hold body weight and do not support falls. – You are likely to fall a distance of 20 meters (65 feet) or more. – The risk of injuries is high. |
The grades sometimes have a plus (+) or minus (-) suffix for further subdivision.