As a new climber shopping around for my first set of climbing equipment, I came across ice axes and ice tools and wondered if they can be used interchangeably. So I did some quick research and here’s what I found.
What’s the difference between an ice axe and an ice tool? An ice axe is a multi-purpose tool which can be used for hiking, ascending and descending of routes with snowy or icy conditions. It is used mainly to help with balance and as a safety tool. An ice tool is a specialized form of ice axe that’s used for vertical ice climbing. An ice tool is typically shorter and more curved as compared to an ice axe.
Depending on the terrains and routes you will encounter on your climb, it is typically unlikely that you can use an ice axe and an ice tool interchangeably.
Comparison of an Ice Axe and Ice Tool
Anatomy
The anatomies of an ice
| Ice Axe | Ice Tool |
| Head – The shorter section of the ice axe. – Consists of the pick and adze. – Typically made of steel. – May have some holes in the center for leashes and carabiners. – This can be used as a handle when the ice | Head – The shorter section of the ice – Consists of the pick and adze. – The head is usually a lot more curved than that of an ice – Typically made of steel. – May have some holes in the center for leashes and carabiners. – The ice tool is never used as a walking stick. |
| Pick – The toothed, sharp pointed end of the head. – This is used to cut into the ice and act as an anchor point. | Pick – The toothed, sharp pointed end of the head. – The angle between the pick and the shaft is typically a lot smaller compared to an ice – This is used to cut into the ice and act as an anchor point in vertical climbing. |
| Adze – The flat, wider end of the head. – This is used to chop steps into ice and snow. – This can also come in the form of a hammer. | Adze – The flat, wider end of the head. – This is used to chop grips into ice and snow when the pick side is unsuitable for use. – This can also come in the form of a hammer. |
| Leash – A short strap to be looped around your wrist when using the ice | Leash – A short strap to be looped around your wrist when using the ice – Some ice tools are leashless. |
| Leash stop – A stopper on the shaft to prevent the leash from sliding off. – Typically made of rubber. | Leash stop – A stopper on the shaft to prevent the leash from sliding off. – Typically made of rubber. |
| Shaft – The longer length of the ice – Ranges from 21 to 30 inches (55 to 75 centimeters). – Usually straight, might be wider from front to back as compared to the side to side for an easier grip. – Typically made of wood or lightweight metals or composites. – Might have rubber grip if the shaft is made of metal. | Shaft – The longer length of the ice tool. – Ranges from 17 to 21 inches (45 to 55 centimeters). – Usually curved which is easier to swing and hold during vertical ice climbing. – Curved shafts are used in vertical ice climbing. – Typically made of wood or lightweight metals or composites. – Might have rubber grip if the shaft is made of metal. |
| Spike – A sharp point at the end of the shaft. – This is used for balance when the ice – Typically made of steel. | Spike – A sharp point at the end of the shaft. – This is used to cut out ice or snow in some situations. – Typically made of steel. |
Usage And Function
Here is a comparison between the usage and function of an ice axe and ice tool:
| Ice Axe | Ice Tool |
| Used for: – Climbing on routes with ice or snowy conditions. – Climbing on terrains which are less steep. | Used for: – Vertical ice climbing e.g. frozen waterfalls, ice walls. |
| Functions: – Used as a walking stick and to grab rock edges and ledges when ascending and descending steep routes. – Used to cut steps into the ice – Can be used as an anchor point for belaying. – Used to perform self-arrest (stopping a slide or a fall). | Functions: – Used as anchors for vertical climbing. – Not designed for self-arrest. |
| Quantity: – One climber typically uses one ice | Quantity: – One climber typically uses two ice tools, one on each hand. |
Other Terms For An Ice Axe
You may find that some people may use the terms ice axe and ice tool interchangeably.
To make it easier to differentiate between the two, an ice axe is also called a traveling axe, walking axe or mountaineering axe.
Sub-categories Of Ice Axe And Ice Tool
There are also further sub-categories of ice axes and ice tools.
Comité Européen de Normalisation (CEN) Certification
A European certification body assigns ice axes and ice tools into two categories — Basic (B) or Technical (T).
An ice axe can be rated B or T. An ice tool is always rated T.
A CEN-B rating typically means the ice axe is:
- Lighter
- Less durable
- Less expensive
- Not suitable to be used for technical climbing
A CEN-T rating typically means the ice axe or ice tool is:
- Heavier
- More durable
- More expensive
- Suitable to be used for technical climbing
For ice tools, even the picks and shafts can be rated differently. A CEN-T shaft can have a CEN-B pick.
A CEN-B rating typically means the pick is:
- Thinner
- More flexible
- Able to penetrate hard ice better
A CEN-T rating typically means the pick is:
- Thicker
- Stiffer
- Better suited for mixed climbing (with ice and rocks)
- Tougher and can handle more abuse
Features
Ice tools can also be further split into three sub-categories:
Traditional ice tools
.
- Ice tools that are fitted with specialized leashes that allows climbers to apply grips on their ice tools by “resting” their wrists on the leashes instead of gripping with their hands.
- Disadvantage: ice tool might become stuck and become hard to tool in the resting position. For this reason, some competitions have banned these ice tools in favor of leashless ones.
Leashless ice tools
- Ice tools without leashes with gives climbers greater flexibility in maneuvering and using the tools.
- Climbers will not get stuck on their leashes.
- Disadvantage: ice tools might be dropped during the climb. To address this issue, a flexible cord is used to attach the tools instead.
Modified traditional tools
- Ice tools which are designed with finger rests.
- Can be with or without leashes.
How To Secure An Ice Axe Or Ice Tool When Not In Use
Backpacks typically have straps designed to attach an ice
Here are the steps to secure the ice axe or ice tools:
- With the spike facing down, you slide the shaft all the way through the bottom strap or loop.
- When the head is resting on the strap, twist the ice axe or tool 180 degrees. The spike should now be at the top of your backpack and the head is at the bottom.
- Secure the shaft with the strap or loop at the top of your backpack.
- Give your backpack a few hard shakes to make sure the ice axe or tool will not fall out when you are moving about.
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Related Questions
Can you bring your ice axe or ice tools on a flight? TSA indicates that ice axes and tools are not allowed in your carry-on luggage. They can be packed in your checked in luggage. TSA also specified that sharp objects have to be sheathed or securely wrapped to prevent injury to baggage handlers and inspectors. You can buy a protector which can be fitted around the head of the ice axe or tool or simply tie an old towel around the sharp points.
How long can ice axes last? According to Black Diamond, these are the typical lifespans of ice axes:
- Sporadic use only during climbing seasons: 5 to 10 years.
- Regular use throughout the year on difficult routes and sustaining some ice falls: 3 to 5 years.
- Frequent, professional use on new routes and sustaining ice falls: 3 to 6 seasons.
- Used for rock or mixed climbing or in competitions: 1 to 2 seasons.
What is an ice screw? An ice screw is a large threaded tubular screw used as to arrest falls or as an anchor to belay climbers on steep terrains. They range from 4 to 9 inches (10 to 23cm). Climbers typically require a large number of ice screws, with varying lengths, for a climb. The quantity and lengths depend on the routes and many other factors.